![]() ![]() The actual crossover point should be made so it matches the baffle loss, so we can simply turn up the woofer a bit to compensate. By making the woofer section powered we can decouple LF system sensitivity and MF system sensitivity. Using WF182BD04 (8 Ohm Bass/Mid) and TW030WA12 makes a good 8 Ohm Mid/Hi system for (say) 200 - 300Hz crossover point and can produce 88dB/2.83V/1m. Using a smaller midrange and offloading all bass (below say 200Hz) to an active woofer section would be better IMNSHO.Īlternatively going for a passive 3-Way speaker with > 90dB/2.83V sensitivity would be a better match for a power constrained Amplifier. If we aim for 85dB SPL at -20dBFS & 3m listening distance means 2,5W per Channel operation power (for 85dB) and 250W output for full output (105dB Peak 3m). Using a reflex system can extend LF lower in a larger box.Īs it is advisable to include around 3dB baffle loss compensation when placing the speaker not near walls (in the 80's these speakers would sit in a bookshelf, essentially back to the wall) getting only 84dB/W/m means a big power amp is desirable. If we take a classic "80's" style in a 20 liter sealed enclosure the WF223 manages 37Hz F3, really good. Something like this done using modern drivers might be really good. But I feel using a Wavecor TW030WA12 would be a better tweeter, also allowing a lower crossover point.Ī 20cm + HF 2-Way is a mainstay of the 70's & 80's and work well enough as a single speaker to not make a subwoofer mandatory but are limited to modest size apartments. I'd say building an active or semi-active (amplified woofer) setup like this will kill most commercial or similar kit speakers out there, especially if build as Cardioid Woofer setup. One can of course go all DSP, but I'm oldfashioned.Ī lot of the electronics DIY can be based on designs found at RoD Elliott's site: Personally I would use likely use passive LCR line level crossovers for MF & HF and active "Op-Amp Grave" as LF EQ (Linkwitz Transform), Crossover (derived subtractive crossover with passive 1st order HPF for the MF section) and LF semi-parametric EQ (at least 4 Bands, 8 bands preferred). Amplifiers stacked behind the speakers,short speaker cables and long interconnect cables. Perhaps a nice setup would be a stereo Linsley Hood Class A 25W X 2 per side for MF/HF, backed up by a TPA3255 based Stereo Class D Amp for the bass. This will create a cardioid Woofer system with theoretically no rear output. A box for two of these needs around 120 Liters and will give 42Hz -3dB Point.įor extra points use 3pcs in 180 liter total with the third driver in the back of the woofer section and inverted in polarity. It should be crossed over below 250Hz, so around 200Hz or so crossover, matches perfect with our Midrange. If we stick to Wavecor a pair of SW312WA03 look the part, give them at least 1kW/2Ohm Amplifier, Class D is fine. Use a sealed enclosure and a big amplifier and suitable EQ to get the correct flat response. Remember 10" and smaller is for girly men. Class D has come a long way but I still think classic linear Amplifiers are preferable for low to medium power in Mid's & Highs.Īdd a pair of the biggest bass drivers you can fit in the sides of the speaker, I'd probably go for 12" to 15" arranged in "force cancelling" arrangement. In this case Aliexpress offers both replica's of John Linsley Hood's Class A designs with up to 25W per channel (not exactly "low distortion" by ASR standards, but good enough in my books) or LM3886 based units (these will likely cost less and have a bit more power). Using a minidsp DSP crossover is an option. For the Wavecor that looks like ~ 6 liters sealed, giving ~0.7 Qt and 80Hz -3dB point, so crossover should be at least 160Hz or higher. Woofer in a sealed enclosure for Qt=0.7 filled with rockwool or basotect. Use a relatively low crossover frequency, for a number of reasons ` 1.2kHz is a good choice. It should be possible to find a 2-way project with these drivers. Tweeter, again Wavecor TW030WA12 is a good balance of high quality design and lowish cost. I like Wavecor or purifi 6.5" as midrange, obviously the Wavecor WF182BD04 costs a lot less. First, don't go 2.5 Way, go for a true 3-way design with an active Sub. ![]()
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